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The Alchemy of Fit: Drafting Tops, Torsos, Skirts & Sleeves
July 20, 2017
Pat's Library
July 24, 2017
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The Alchemy of Fit: Complete Set

$5,988.00

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The Alchemy of Fit (with Pat Trautman):

1. Drafting pants & jeans

Starting with drafting the pattern we learn more about its relationship to the body and thereby understand better where fit corrections should be made and why, as well as their impact on other parts of the garment. Additionally, in drafting we learn the major base lines and the balance points of the pattern to then apply this to the sewn sample to evaluate, then transfer back again to the pattern.

Follow along with Pat as she drafts the pants and jeans using a modified-Mitchell system drafting first to spec, then to shape for fit. You can pause, rewind and re listen until you are comfortable in drafting. Also follow along and make notes in the PDF Field Guide.

Learn more about the 3 animal sins of pants and how to neutralize them. Are they sewing or patterning issues?

Additionally hear about differences in global fit, and drafting to same spec but in different parts of the world. Why do pants drafted to the same spec, same tech pac, but in different parts of the world fit differently?

2. Drafting torsos, bodies and sleeves

Transitioning to the body we draft a torso, easily convertible in a dress or tunic, in relationship to the body and sleeves, as upside-down pants for the arms (the reason that pants come first!)

Starting with drafting the pattern we learn more about its relationship to the body and thereby understand better where fit corrections should be made and why, as well as their impact on other parts of the garment. Additionally, in drafting we learn the major base lines and the balance points of the pattern to then apply this to the sewn sample to evaluate, then transfer back again to the pattern.

Follow along with Pat as she drafts the torso and the set-in sleeve first to spec, then to shape for fit. And re listen until you are comfortable in drafting. Also follow along and make notes in the PDF Field Guide.

Learn more about the impact of shoulder slope on both the draft and the fit of torso and sleeves. Yes, shoulder slope and sleeves!

Additionally, hear about differences in global fit, and drafting to same spec but in different parts of the world. Why do tops drafted to the same spec, same tech pac, but in different parts of the world fit differently? Could front/back chest distribution and HPS have anything to do with it?

3. Nail that Fit!

Why is this section after the first two, learning to draft?

Because now we can apply the how of drafting to where and why and how we fit a garment. In this order “fit” easily relates back to pattern. It also gives us sequencing, why certain steps come first.

How to place the garment on the dress form, Avatar or fit model, following the important base lines for that draft. Then evaluation of the fit relative to the manner of drafting that pattern, to then transfer back to the pattern.

Covers fitting all category of garment drafted in earlier segments, with reference to dress form, global fit, and brand fit model. Also discusses ongoing dilemma of are issues due to sewing or to pattern? How can I tell?

4. Pattern Forensics and Reverse Engineering of Patterns

Using a jacket pattern (for complexity) as well as bottoms and several tops patterns (including sleeves) patterns will be evaluated for internal balance (necessary for grading) and to discover the principles behind how they were drafted, and later corrected. From this we move to how to bring them back into balance with correct internal spec relationships.
Many times this process is needed when GRADING or SIZING appear incorrect or results in incorrect pattern shapes based on the fit size. It yields a history of the pattern draft and its permutations.

Discussion of drafting tools, and additional resources included in all segments and are pertinent to that segment.

Each segment is followed several months later by a webinar highlighting more advanced issues, and answering questions posed by users of the etraining.

With sufficient demand a MasterMind class will be offered. Onsite training in these topics is also provided, as well as a redux of the training in the computer with Gerber AccuMark PDS.

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